Chocolate Pudding! Oaxacan Style

     Perfect for Cinco de Mayo this weekend – and any of the other 364 days of the year – this recipe deserves a WARNING:  “May become habit forming”!

     The original recipe comes from Susana Trilling, whom I was delighted to meet a couple weeks ago when she conducted a small cooking class at Comal restaurant in Berkeley.  This is one of her signature recipes, showcasing one of the main products of Oaxaca, Mexico – CHOCOLATE.

     This chocolate pudding hits all the right notes:  truly rich and chocolate-y, hints of cinnamon, bright pops of tartness from the cherries, sweetness from the Cointreau and finally – smoothness but with some texture from the bread and cherries.  This recipe is a great base from which to try variations of chocolates, liqueurs, dried fruits and flavorings.

     I am not usually one who licks the spatulas after use.  Not so with this chocolate marvel!  I was contriving every conceivable reason to “check” on chocolate-custard-soaking-bread. Note:  soaking is not typically a high-maintenance step in cooking.  There were those few cubes of bread that rose to the top, requiring me to fold them back into their chocolate bliss.  Again.  And again.  Each time with a spatula that needed washing (wink-wink) after each use.  Hence the aforementioned warning.

     Disclaimer Note:  I am not a raw-egg-phobe in my kitchen, so tasting the uncooked custard did not concern me.  However, I use organic eggs from pasture-roaming chickens at Say Hay Farms in Woodland, CA; so fresh eggs every Saturday from Chris Hay at the Grand Lake Farmers’ Market.  Please do not eat uncooked custard containing raw egg if you have any health concerns from doing so.  Be patient and wait to taste after the pudding is fully baked.

     I knew I was in for a treat once I learned that Susana Trilling was giving a cooking class at Comal restaurant in Berkeley.  Comal has earned deservedly high praise for Chef Matt Gandin’s Oaxacan inspired food; and Susana Trilling is celebrated for her expertise in cooking from Mexico’s Oaxaca (think PBS series, cook books and cooking school!)  What I did not expect was the caliber of cooks and chefs who came from near and far to attend this special offering.

     Because Susana was in San Francisco to attend the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) annual conference, several of her pals joined her in this half-day class in Berkeley.  Several chefs, cooking school instructors and culinary tour operators mingled with home cooks like me.  I was delighted to meet Ruth Alegria of Mexico City who wears many hats there including IACP Country Coordinator, Leader Slow Food Convivium Condesa/Roma, and founder of Mexico Soul and Essence;  Judy Witts Francini who conducts culinary programs from Tuscany, Italy; Bay Area pastry chef and instructor Terry Paetzold; and Chef Ryan Rose of Zocalo restaurants in my hometown of Roseville and Sacramento.

     I have already been in contact with several of these fine folks since our shared Comal experience, and look forward participating in some form and fashion with their exciting culinary offerings.  I’ve since been to Zocalo in Roseville.  Ohhhh, so good.  Props to Ryan and his team!

A few advance tips:

1. This is a Mexican recipe, and therefore Mexican chocolate is essential if you desire authentic Mexican flavor from this dessert.  Mexican chocolate is made of cacao, sugar and cinnamon.  I was fortunate to have Susana’s “Seasons of My Heart” chocolate, which can be purchased online.  Rancho Gordo of Napa, CA also imports a yummy Mexican chocolate.
2. As with the chocolate, Mexican vanilla has a unique flavor profile.  Use it for authenticity.
3. Mexican chocolate, vanilla and cinnamon are available at several well-stocked grocers and at Mexican markets throughout our East Bay area.  And online.  Select a premium Mexican vanilla that does not contain the additive coumarin.
4. The unbaked pudding mixture will fit into five ramekins.  Be aware this dessert is very rich, so dividing it into six smaller portions may be wise.  Remember, you will be adding whipped cream in the final assembly.

Budin de Chocolate Oaxaqueño

Adapted from Susana Trilling, Seasons of My Heart Cooking School

Makes 6 individual 6 ounce ramekins

Ingredients

For the pudding:

1/ 4 cup dried cherries (may use raisins or cranberries)

2 Tablespoons Cointreau, or similar liqueur

1-3/ 4 cup sweet baguette, cut into 1/ 2-inch cubes

8 ounces Oaxacan chocolate, such as Seasons of My Heart (substitute Mexican chocolate such as Rancho Gordo)

1/ 4 cup brewed coffee, strong

1/ 8 teaspoon sea salt

2 large eggs

1/ 2 cup Mexican crema, or crème fraiche

1/ 4 cup heavy whipping cream

1/ 8 cup granulated sugar

1/ 2 teaspoon Mexican vanilla

1/ 8 teaspoon Mexican cinnamon

For the topping:

1 cup whipping cream

1/ 2 teaspoon Mexican vanilla

1 ounce Oaxacan chocolate, grated

Preparation

For the pudding:

1. Preheat the oven to 350˚F.
2. Put the dried cherries and Cointreau in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer.  Remove from heat and let cherries continue soaking in the liqueur.
3. Spread the bread cubes on a baking sheet and bake until lightly toasted, 10 to 15 minutes.  Set aside.
4. Put the chocolate, coffee and salt into a double boiler over medium heat.  Reduce the heat to a simmer and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the chocolate is melted.  Whisk until smooth.  Allow to cool.
5. Put the eggs, crème fraiche, cream, sugar, vanilla and cinnamon in a medium size bowl and stir with a whisk until blended.  Stirring the egg mixture continuously, pour in the melted chocolate and continue stirring until thoroughly blended.
6. Add the soaked cherries, with any remaining liqueur, and toasted bread cubes to the bowl and stir well.  Set aside at room temperature until the bread completely soaks up the mixture, about 2 hours.  (This can be made a day ahead, but refrigerate the mixture.)
7. When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350˚F.  Butter the ramekins.  Bring a kettle of water to a boil.
8. Divide the pudding mixture into six buttered ramekins, leaving at least 1/ 2-inches to the rim for room to rise.  Put them in a baking pan large enough to hold them all without touching.  Slide out the oven rack, put the pan on the rack; and then pour in the boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins, being careful to not get any water into the puddings.
9. Bake until the puddings are fully set, but still moist, about 45-50 minutes.  To check for doneness, insert a clean knife into the center of a pudding.  If it comes out clean, the pudding is ready.
10. Remove from the oven and place the ramekins on a rack to cool.  After 15 minutes, remove the puddings from the ramekins, if desired.

For the topping and assembly:

Whip the cream and vanilla together until desired consistency is reached (soft peaks shown here).  Garnish with plenty of whipped cream and grated chocolate.  Susana prepares a fruit puree and tangerine syrup.  Comal presents this dessert in the ramekin with a whipped cream quenelle and grated chocolate.  However you decide will be delicious!