Browned Butter Delicata Tea Cake

“Did you forget anything?” Jim asked as we were bringing filled dishes to our Thanksgiving table.  “Nope, it’s all there!” says me.

Hours later, as we’re putting away the last platter, he spies the three Delicata squash tucked up at the end of the counter, next to the blender.  I am the recipient of the raised eye.  “I didn’t forget to make them, I decided we had plenty of food and we didn’t need another dish (or more leftovers)!” says a defiant me.  “I’m going to use them for my column.”, furthering my point they were not a Thanksgiving oversight.

So now I’ve committed, and the brain-wracking begins.  Column is due on Sunday, meaning I’ve got to do my cooking/baking/photography/writing within the next two days.

I’ve already written up a very tasty roasted Delicata squash recipe, and for my December column I like a baking/dessert project.  Scouring the www, the closest I come to an inspiration is a Delicata squash upside-down cake, always a winner approach.  I’m not quite in the mood, but it’s an idea for another day.

Still no flashes of brilliance, but I’ve got a direction.  The next night, with still no firm idea for the recipe-on-a-deadline, my little cat, MoMo, jumps up onto a tall stack of cookbooks.  I go to get him down and my eyes fall on the faded and worn spine of Beard on Bread.  It’s been pulled out as I’ve just referred to its neighbor for the zillionth time, James Beard’s American Cookery, out of which I’ve been baking his “Pumpkin or Squash Pie” every Thanksgiving since the Carter Administration.

Then I think of zucchini bread, oft prepared out of Beard on Bread and, stay with me, I consider using the Delicata squash in similar fashion.  Why not?  Delicata squash have a slight sweetness to them, the skins are edible, and I’ve got a surplus pretending to be the subject of my column.

The rest is my imagination at work.  I take a few significant left turns from Mr. Beard thinking the nuttiness of browned butter would go well.  I used freshly ground green cardamom and ground ginger as the spice base; as I tire easily of cinnamon-or-pumpkin-spice- everything at this time of year.  But his proportions and method remain pretty much intact.

I hope you’ll give this a try and agree with me that Mr. Beard remains an inspiration after all these years.

Browned Butter Delicata Tea Cake

Makes one 8.5 x 4.5-inch loaf cake

Print Recipe Pin Recipe

Course Dessert

Ingredients

  

• 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon double-acting baking powder
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground green cardamom ideally from whole green cardamom pods
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1-1/2 cups finely grated Delicata squash about 1 large, no need to peel the skin
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter see below for browning instructions
• 2 large eggs
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts optional
• 5 slices Delicata squash barely 1/4" thick for decoration, optional
• 1 tablespoon turbinado sugar or similar coarse grind, optional

Instructions

 

• Place an oven rack at the lower third position. Preheat oven to 350˚ F. Line an 8.5 x 4.5-inch loaf pan with parchment paper laid crosswise, then generously butter the exposed ends of the pan. Set aside.
• Brown the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Do not get distracted during the several minutes it takes to achieve cooking the milk solids in the butter to a warm, toasty brown. Stir frequently for even cooking and to avoid scorching. The browned bits should reach a light brown. Remove from heat and transfer into a large mixing bowl to prevent over-cooking, which results in a sharp, acrid taste.
• While the browned butter cools slightly, measure the flour, baking soda, salt, baking powder and spices into a medium bowl. Gently whisk to thoroughly combine. Set aside.
• To the large bowl of browned butter, add the 3/4 cup of granulated sugar and 2 eggs. Whisk until well combined and slightly aerated; then add the vanilla extract and shredded Delicata squash. Mix well with a spatula. Add the flour mixture all at once and stir to combine with the spatula. Mix only until the dry ingredients are barely incorporated and take care to avoid over-mixing. Fold in the nuts.
• Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan. Place the slices of Delicata squash on top, if using, then lightly sprinkle the turbinado sugar atop the squash slices.
• Bake for about 1 hour, or until a toothpick inserted in the middle of the loaf comes out clean.
• Cool in the pan for about 10 minutes, then remove from the pan and complete cooling on a wire rack.